Worried Parents

Today has been a very difficult day for us as parents. You know that feeing that you are always responsible for the children you raise. Well today we started proceedings by engaging in the technological marvels of Skype, that has been keeping us in touch in a much more satisfactory way than e-mail does. In both cases, in between lots of exciting family news, Jonathan’s interesting finger and knowledge of the streaking phenomenon, Jack’s latest football exploits, the Dancing Queen’s progress and the walking smileathon that is Oliver, we were left with lingering doubts to our impact on our own two offspring. These are disturbing thoughts, had we or had we not been the influence that had them sitting on the other side of the world with their respective partners flagrantly quaffing glasses of wine while they are spending the evening looking after our grandchildren? Did we lead them astray when we subjected them to the degustation regime on French holiday?

Whilst pondering these matters of great moment we decided that the most appropriate way to give the question proper weight was to go to the source as they say and arrange for a tour of some of the wineries in this region and spend the day in contemplation. It took no time at all to make arrangements with Marlborough Wine Tours to get the process under way.

The Barrel Room at Wither Hills

We were picked up promptly and introduced to our other two tourists and asked about any preferences that we might have on the tour. Initial exchanges over we headed off to the first of our wineries. This stop off gave us the opportunity to get to know our party a little better as well as judge what the form was on these visits. The first thing that became clear was that the two guys with us had a great sense of humour and both interest in and knowledge of wine A real good quaffing at the first of our calls, Lawson’s Dry Hills, set the tone for the rest of the day.

Neil, Dene and Sheila at Lunch

On to the mighty Wither Hills where it became clear that if we were to progress at this rate there could be casualties a tactical decision was made that at the next winery it would be politic to attempt the ingestion of some solids. And so it was at Highfields we sat, after appropriate tastings, and had wonderful mixed platters of food accompanied by one of their wines.

Highfields Tower

View from the Tower

Spot who's feeling the pace

Cloudy Bay grounds

Carneys at Work

Next on the agenda was a cracking boutique winery, Seresin, whose organic pedigree and philosophy is evident in the quality of their wine. Another winery, unknown to us at home, followed, Forrest Wines.

Final call of the day was to a place that had to be on my itinerary, Cloudy Bay. Over twenty years ago I attended a blind tasting of white wines and for me the best wine on offer even against some well-known European names was indeed a Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. This was the moment that I became convinced of the quality available in the Southern Hemisphere. Once again we were not disappointed, although by this stage of proceedings not all of our party were as coherent in their tasting comments as they had been when we met earlier in the day.

Charlene, Dene, Michael and Sheila

Intellectual stimulation, grape varieties well known and newly tasted, great company, lots of tempting purchases and purchases made, logoed pens liberated when not on sale, knowledgeable staff and generous hospitality ensured that this was a day to remember if we could. What we do know is that if you want a value for money drinking exercise and want to do it with quality product you can do a lot worse than sign up with Marlborough Wine Tours. Thanks Charlene, Dene and Neil who were such great company.

How did this lot get into our luggage?

Back to where we started, where are we as parental influences, well if a glass of wine is something learned and appreciated then maybe it wasn’t all bad. If it was bad then we’re still bad and enjoying it.

This article has been brought to you by dint of liberated pen ink and befuddled thinking. The author accepts no liability for any stupidities that are contained therein. Good night one and all.

Marlborough

Our stay in Wellington over we headed via the ferry to the South Island.

The journey is one of the classic trips in itself. Whatever the conditions there must always be something to tantalise the spirit in such majestic surroundings.

The following photographs are just a tempter as to the delights available as part of the fare on the Interislander.

Cloud cover on North Island

Some of the first land on South Island

Into the Sound

Hippie Codicil

Sorry about this but as we went to press the following weren’t available and I can’t think why. However, later though they are they further emphasise the message in the last post. Children abound and environs are antiquated, but Sheila beams. Absolutely great crack and couldn’t finish the food.

Sheila chews chowder

Superman delivers the bill

Children's playground

Harbours and Hippies

Out of the hotel, down a lift to a lower street level and we were quickly down to the harbour side. Like many cities on the water, the Wellington harbour side has been developed to make it an accessible area for pedestrians with lots to interest them while they walk. Boardwalk, buildings and sculpture keep you diverted as you promenade. A short stroll along the boardwalk here leads to a very fine building full of fascinating artefacts and works of art, Te Papa, the Museum of New Zealand.

Harbourside

Our short visit to the Museum allowed us to climb to the roof and view the small sculpture area and whilst enjoying the impressive views of the harbour and city have one of our perennial debates about the meaning of modern art. After this seeing some of the striking indigenous art housed next to European influences of the developing art of New Zealand posed lots of questions about the history of ideas and their part in artistic expression. It was also exciting to see the work of some old artistic friends, whose works have become familiar on visits to Kelvingrove and Edinburgh.

Te Papa

Sculpture Exhibit - The Garden

A short walk over to the Civic Square where the international teams for the New Zealand Rugby Sevens were being received by the local civic leaders and lots of cheering crowds. Unfortunately, we will leave Wellington as the tournament begins. Bit of a Bill and Ann going on here, we arrived here just as the AC/ DC tour moved on to Auckland.

Civic Welcome for Rugby Sevens Teams

Library

The rest of the day was to be devoted to Sheila’s search for a hippie past that she had somehow missed out on and the premises that she had winkled out of the trusty Lonely Planet guide were best described as idiosyncratic. First of these was a café called Fidel’s, one of a number of premises that related to the name of the street, Cuba. In a small outdoor enclosure we were surrounded by students, Castro/ Guevara inspired artefacts and well-worn tables. The pizza however, was first rate and the salad perfect. The long trek back to the hotel won its own reward in a late afternoon dizzy spell.

Sheila supporting the Cuban Flag

Ernesto

Fidel's Doorstep

Evening arrived and the initial plan, to attend a debate on the Waitangi Treaty, was shelved more because of general weariness than lack of interest. Eventually the final stage in our reversion to the old ways came about with a lengthy amble to Sheila’s selected, Sweet Mother’s Kitchen. This place is a real throwback, Cajun cooking, old American memorabilia and the best background music in town. In fact it’s fair to say that this is the first establishment I’d been in where the ‘proprietor selected’ did not cause me deep offence. Muzak rant over. What was most interesting about each of these establishments was the fact that the collective age of all the other customers would not have amounted to the addition of ours. We are fast gaining notoriety as the New Age/ Old Age Grandfolks from Great Britain and as we walk the streets of Wellington you can hear young people mentioning the presence of ‘those old folks’ in their favourite haunts.

Arrival in Wellington

A driving day from Napier to Wellington, for the most part straightforward and as usual little traffic until the last portion through the Rimutaka Forest Park where we met the now familiar steep climbs with lots of switchback turns. During the highest parts of the trip we travelled through cloud and light rain till we started our descent towards Wellington where the sun was shining and we were into another beautiful day.

View down Cable Car Track

After unpacking our initial venture out found us taking the cable car out of town and up to the Botanical Gardens from where there are stunning views of the city and bay.

From the top we were able to look back to the hills draped in the cloud that had obscured our vision as we drove through it on our journey south.

Krupp Gun - relic of WW1 presented to New Zealand Government

Wellington from Botanical Gardens

Botanicals being Botanicals

Enjoyment of the summit was followed by a walk through the gardens that took us down the hill towards the town, all part of a cunning plan to have me scaling mountains, on this occasion by walking back up the hill to the cable car station. You will be pleased to hear that I thwarted the plan to arrive breathless and dripping in perspiration at the summit by continuing down to the town at a leisurely pace. Great gardens, great views, first impressions a really interesting city.

Peace Flame - The Flame will burn till nuclear disarmament is a reality

Cityscape

Parliament Buildings

A Taste of Hawkes Bay or a Craggy Experience

Another early morning nervous awakening due to the impending latest instalment in the saga of our beloved football club. We’ve not yet decided whether or not the facility of seeing most games live over here is a good or bad thing. At least today we didn’t ship any more goals. Enough of that.

Hawkes Bay is known for two things. The first relates to the aftermath of a 1931 earthquake that devastated the town. It did have one positive that emerged and that was the concentration of new buildings that echoed the Art Deco style that was enjoying a vogue at the time. This makes Napier an interesting town to ramble around. The buildings are worth looking at.

The second thing is the concentration of some of the best wine growers in the country whose vineyards are well worth looking at and visiting for tastings.

As the early morning drizzle receded we walked the streets to take in the design and then we headed off to visit the home of one of the best vineyards in the area.

The first pictures are a few details from the buildings around Napier City Centre.

Deco detail 1
Deco detail 2

Deco detail 3

A view from the tasting room to the Craggy Range

Another bit of detail

In the afternoon we drove out to the area past Havelock North below the beautiful hill of Te Mata and the set of peaks known as Craggy Range which give their name to the wine that is produced in their shadow. This was to be our only full tasting session while in the area and the choice of Craggy Range was based on the ever-reliable wine writers in our chosen newspapers. We were not to be disappointed. The range of wines for tasting was varied and served in progressive fashion from light whites to meaty reds. The sommelier was knowledgeable and helpful. The only downer was the necessary spitting out to preserve the fitness to drive but it is possible to enjoy without consuming. As you will no doubt have guessed we did not leave empty handed and our luggage to Wellington will be a little heavier than planned. Shame we can’t ship a case or two home, another search required when we eventually get back. Without boring you the viticulturists of Craggy Range know their job and are producing some interesting and complex wines that rise above the vast majority of Antipodean wines we see back home.

Craggy Vines

After the joys of the tasting room we got our dose of fresh air by taking the road up towards the peak of Te Mata walking the last three quarters of a mile or so. Great views to complete our day.

On top of Te Mata

View to the North

The Craggies

Our Craggies

Landslips and Late Running

The impact of the rains on the landscape here can be dramatic as much of the countryside is still just that, countryside, uncultivated and untouched by the ministrations of man. Where the countryside and man meet it is not always possible to control the impact of the elements. Today we were to drive from Rotorua to Napier and set off with the day in front of us when we heard a road report telling us that the road from Taupo to Napier was closed. The overnight rain had caused a series of landslips that had blocked the road. For those of you unfamiliar with the roads in this part of New Zealand there is only one alternative route to the Taupo/ Napier road. It goes through Palmerston North and involves an extra four hours on the road. Time was required to think about the situation so we stopped off at Huka Falls to kill some time and ponder our short list of options.

Huka Falls

Entrance to the Falls

The Falls are a popular stop off for many of the bus trips that tour the area and we had the opportunity to consult with the local experts who informed us that there was a possibility that the road would reopen but that the predicted time for this was now well past. They advised stopping in Taupo until there was further news.

Having enjoyed our diversion to the Falls we waited out the road crews by swapping authors with the local bookshop owner and taking coffee. It was with some relief that we heard from a passer by with his ear stuck to his mobile phone that the road had just opened. We hit it post haste.