Auckland without the Bishop

Arrival in Auckland at almost midnight meant a long night, as the airport is a good way out of town and our hotel was on the front at the harbour. By the time we travelled down there and checked in, unpacked the necessaries it was getting on for two, so bed was a priority.

View from bedroom

A slow start the next morning before we headed out to explore and to find ourselves domiciled right nest to the basin that served as the marina for the last two stagings of the America’s Cup. The whole area is a tribute to the success of the New Zealand teams, but also to their national preoccupation with the sport of ocean going yacht racing. Marinas abound and the fabulous creations that occupy them are an absolute delight, well worth a ramble around. Truly the ‘City of Sails’.

Downtown Auckland

Sky Tower appears everywhere

Like most cities if you ask around you discover bargains that make some aspect of life in the city easier or cheaper. A simple question alerted us to the existence of a real bargain in Auckland, the Link bus service. This is a bus route that does a figure of eight route around town, covering all of the places that a tourist might want to go. You can choose to take the trip all the way around the route or use it to reach a particular destination. The great beauty about it is that it only costs $1.60 (about 80p) per journey on matter how short or long. This could be the cheapest city tour anywhere in the world.

Art Gallery

We interrupted our circuit to visit the Art Gallery, currently open in a building near to the original whilst that is receiving an expensive update and extension. An interesting exhibition covering the history of New Zealand caught our attention as it had exhibits from the early days up to date. It also presented the opportunity to sit and make a few sketches, a neglected discipline since arriving here. Just as we were about to leave, the heavens opened and we retreated to the café to while away the time till the squall passed. It was then a stroll down Queen’s Street and back to the hotel for a brief dizzy spell, this travelling takes it out of one. Only one diversion on the way, a visit to a well stocked wine store with an enthusiastic and knowledgeable proprietor who gave excellent advice, as we were to find out before retiring.

Viaduct Harbour

Great array of yachts

Our day drew to a close with a walk around the Viaduct Harbour to look at the boats and have a waterside dinner.

THE NEXT DAY

My wife has one failing on holiday and that is her urge to out do the authors of the appropriate Lonely Planet guide to wherever we happen to be. Now yesterday was a relatively quiet day but Sheila decided that the alarm should be set for seven and that we should then embark upon a veritable stamina sapping day before leaving Auckland tomorrow.

Shower and breakfast over we hit the streets at eight and had our first readjustment as the proposed cruise to Rangitoto was maybe not the best idea given the landing conditions on the island. However, the harbour cruise was a good alternative and as it didn’t set off till 10.30 we were left with time on our hands. Sheila came to ‘rescue’, off to the Sky Tower where Michael will ascend and Sheila will remain at ground level. This doesn’t indicate any reluctance on Michael’s part; just he hadn’t mentioned it because Sheila hates heights. The walk up the hill to get there clearly had Sheila thinking about it and in the end she decided to brave it and travel to the top where we both marveled at the panorama opening before us. This was accentuated by the weather system passing through, it was to be a day of sunshine and showers or more accurately passing squalls.

Early Light from Sky Tower

Sun's Up

Yes she got there
Michael steps out
We leave it behind
Escapee from local fish farm

Down the hill in nice time to board the Wanderer for a tour of the harbour, narrated by a superbly well-informed guide who made the whole trip a joy. Free coffee and cake were to provide the only solids we were likely to see till late evening, although the planning hadn’t addressed the feeding issue at all.

Harbourside

Rangitoto

One thing that we knew of New Zealand before coming here is the quality of wine that is produced. Yesterday’s recommendations at the local wine store had been good so back there we went, Sheila as is her wont had spotted a way to diminish the cost of wine purchase, buy more and the cost goes down. Out we marched with a half dozen of a very fine Sauvignon Blanc. These were rapidly dropped back at the hotel before setting out on the next stage of Sheila’s marathon touring plan.

Straight out to find the local Link bus stop ($1.60 a trip) and find the appropriate stop for the Auckland Museum. The Maori collection here is impressive and engaging. Interesting aside, here they suggest a donation for entry to the Museum, which is done at a desk as you enter, a little different to the suggestion policy back home. We pensioners on reciprocal understandings with all of those enjoying the wonders of the great galleries at home declined the invitation to donate at the door but did so in privacy a little later. Off piste rant.

Maori War Canoe
Maori Ancestral Home

Part of the deal when buying tickets for the harbour cruise was that there was also a free return ticket to Devonport. If there is anything guaranteed to motivate Sheila then it is the certainty of taking advantage of any entitlement conferred by people who sell things. There was no choice but that down the hill we would go after completing the Link bus route not leaving any stop unpassed. Onto the ferry for the twelve minute crossing to the lovely Victorian village of Devonport. By this time we were both ready to eat any passing pigeon if we had the energy to capture it and dinner was the mission that we were on. A wander up the street and we spotted a pleasant looking restaurant and in we went. Delightful is the only word to describe it, wonderful seafood and a fine wine. At this point I must make a confession, I arrived in New Zealand with a hit list of wines that I wanted to sample and here on the list was one of these. All I can say without resorting to wine buff verbiage is that it did not disappoint. One up for the Guardian wine critic. A late ferry completed our day as the sun went down and packing for the next stage completed the evening.

View from Devonport

Advice to self: hide the Lonely Planet guide so that Sheila sets a less exhausting itinerary.

Heysen of Hahndorf

When it was suggested to me that we might visit the home of Hans Heysen I was thrilled. Heysen was German born but lived in Australia from the age of six and began to make his mark as a painter very early in his life and after periods of study in Europe and marriage to his wife Sallie he bought a property near the village of Hahndorf in the hills above Adelaide. From 1912 till his death in 1968, Heysen made a unique record of the landscape of, in particular, South Australia. The property that he bought, called the Cedars, is a wonderful place to visit and it is easy to understand how an artist would be moved to use this area not only as a base but as his inspiration also. Fortunately the property is still in family hands and it is possible to visit the house and studio, with their wonderful collection of Heysen paintings and sketches. Of course this is what we did before exploring the grounds. Much of the land associated with the estate is as nature intended with the addition of helpful information points that relate to the specific paintings created at those points. We all loved it and could have stayed much longer, indeed I could easily contemplate a holiday painting there for a matter of weeks.

The Shady Pool

A garden full of treats

Heysen's Studio

Heysen's Studio Again - I want one!

I'm obviously over excited because I've launched into the Heysen trip without talking about our earlier activity. So here goes.

It is always a pleasure, when visiting Adelaide, to head for the Central Market. Here you have the widest range of choice in buying fresh fruit, vegetables and meat. This market is very much like the great markets that we see in some of our European cities, though sadly never on anything but a small scale back home in Britain. The plan was to meet Jan and select the meat and vegetables for our evening meal but it would have been a shame to miss the opportunity to take breakfast in Lucio’s first. Having successfully negotiated both tasks we dropped off the food at Jan’s and headed off for our planned trip of the day.

Self explanatory

Ditto

Beautiful produce

Jan tells the tale

Sheila enjoys the tale
Into the Light - Hans Heysen

Inside the Heysen Studio

The Heysen House
Eucalypts in the grounds

Hahndorf Front Street

Glowing with the visual treats that we had experienced it became time for us to head home to savour the fine meat and produce bought that morning at the market. Another memorable day setting us up for a day of travel, when we will head for our main holiday destination, New Zealand. Our readers will be pleased to hear that there will be a sharp drop in temperature when we get there, down to about twenty four or five and that they have both clouds and occasional rain, both of which have been noticeably absent on the previous legs of our tour.

Family Time

An early evening arrival in Adelaide didn’t leave much time for anything other than checking in to our hotel then heading off for dinner with my aunt, Jan and my cousin, Barney.

"One more cup of coffee for the road" - nice pattern eh?

A leisurely start the next day at one of the many cafes around Adelaide city centre made us feel like one of the natives. Café society is alive and well here and many city centre workers make their first stop of the day a breakfast stop. A great variety of choices and interesting establishments contrast with the Mac, Burger King, KFC homogeneity of home. Yes the worldwide brands appear but not in the profusion and almost exclusion of everything else that is the case elsewhere. That’s the end of today’s rant.

Nice little square with nice cafes

Today was to a family day with a visit from Barney’s wife, Jen and their two wonderful little ones, Zara and Charles. Silly games and stories with them had Sheila and myself pining for our little ones back home. The first little sad moment of our trip. If our bunch are reading this, Jack, Jonathan, Sophie and Oliver we can’t wait till we see you again.

Charles and Zara
Charles

Charles and Zara with Jen and Jan

The hectic morning was followed by a quiet afternoon while Sheila and Jan cruised the material shops and I caught up with the blog.

The evening was spent with Jan and Barney in a very pleasant fish restaurant. It did us good to slow down just a little before our next hectic day.

It is possible to survive at 42 degrees

We awoke to searing heat, temperature rapidly rising to the high of the week, 42 degrees C. Shade is sought at every opportunity as we prepare for our trip to Adelaide. Everything slows down at these temperatures, at least it does for us recently arrived refugees from winter. Our last breakfast in Perth is taken outdoors in the lovely garden of Eleanor and Bernard.

Sheila and Eleanor dig into the yoghurt

We were sad to be leaving Perth but excited at the next phase of our trip, more family, some of whom we haven't seen, in Adelaide.

Goodbye Eleanor and Bernard and thanks again

We Should Have Known!

The day dawned hot and we headed out to Garvey Park to take breakfast at the cafe of the Ascot Kayak Club situated overlooking the Swan River. Waiting for our Eggs Benedict we became aware of some unusual birds who started to creep in from some distance. It soon became clear that these were the Western Australian version of the M****e. This did not presage well for the day ahead. By the way the food was grand.

Bird of Ill Omen

Members of Ascot Kayak Club

By the time breakfast was over the temperature had risen to about 38 degrees C so heading to the coast in search of the Fremantle Doctor, ( an afternoon breeze that comes in off the sea and cools down the coast). On the way out there we picked up Eleanor's daughter, Lucy.

Fremantle, like many centres of sailing activity is a great spot to wander around, always something of interest to stop your strolling and in this heat catch your breath.

Does what it says on the label - great fish and chips

Lucy, Sheila and Eleanor entice me into Microbrewery

So we slowly ambled around the town taking breaks to sample locally produced beers and freshly caught fish. There are lots of lovely examples of older buildings here as well as some striking new constructions.

Tram alongside canopied arcade

Canopies and decks

Maritime Museum

The day was not yet over, one of Eleanor's other daughters, Amy, had invited us over for an evening enjoying that age old Aussie tradition, the Barbie. Eleanor also suggested that Amy and her partner Graham had access to a multiplicity of television channels that might even include ones that showed English soccer as they know it out here. Match days are always difficult particularly when they are away matches, you always seem to have less control over affairs.

Our evening was fun, Amy and Graham are great company and they regaled us with tales of their recent exploits. Amy who owns a rental property has some lovely stories and some of disappointing clients, but best of all was the rental applicant who detailed his pets that would be moving in with him, cats, dogs and a GOAT. Eat your heart out Roddie Doyle.

They had recently returned from a friend's wedding on the Pacific Island of Vanuatu. Prompted by our Toga Tale Amy decided to display the costume that all the female guests had to wear as part of the wedding ceremony.

Vanuatan wedding attire

Friends and Good Company

Carefully watching the passing of time we approached the hour of 11p.m. and Sheila tentatively raised the subject of football and sure enough the whole of the game that we were interested in was playing live so we all repaired inside to watch the proceedings. WE SHOULD HAVE KNOWN!

Oooooooo!!!!!

Early arrival at Perth to be met by Eleanor, then off to her and Bernard’s home in the suburb of Carlisle. Unfortunately, we won’t see Bernard this trip as our visit coincides with him performing at festivals in the east of the country. He will return a few hours after we are due to fly to Adelaide.

The first thing that we notice as we emerge from the airport is the massive change in temperature from that experienced in Hong Kong, where we were comfortable in shirt sleeves. Thirty plus and rising, (apologies to the snow bound).

Morning tea, dumping our bags and family chat catch up was followed by a trip around the locality taking in some of the local sights. Again a huge contrast to Hong Kong where buildings are high and crammed together, here other than a few tall city centre blocks there is more space and openness to the civic layout. Once out of the relatively small city centre the feeling of space is palpable. Residential areas are marked by their low-rise nature, two storey buildings being a rarity.

King’s Park would be our venue for lunch where it was a pleasure to get under cover and escape the by now intense heat. Siesta was invented for conditions like this so we duly obliged.

Zamia Restaurant King's Park

Ladies wot lunch

Perth City and Swan River

One for the cricket fans

Dreams of party time (here by mistake)

Eleanor mentioned the fact that she had an invitation to the house of some friends who held weekly film nights where people gathered to sit outside, maybe picnic and enjoy a film together. Intrigued by this prospect we decided that it sounded like an interesting prospect for post dinner entertainment and so it turned out to be.

The Last Drive In

A short drive took us to an area where hills overlooked the city. We left the main road to follow a narrow paved section that quickly ran out of tarmac. A hand painted sign indicated where to turn in and park the car. Half buried antique metal film canisters marked out the boundaries of the parking area, a clue to the former life of one of the occupants of the property that we were about to enter. Emerging from the car into the empty car park we spotted the second hand painted sign that indicated the route that we should take down to the house, again marked off by a further batch of film canisters lining the red earth track. At this point a figure appeared round the corner of the building and we all stopped in our tracks as we puzzled over what this person was wearing. Was this person really dressed in toga and laurel leaves? Meet our host, Frank, who came forward to greet us wreathed in bed sheet toga, a hand made facsimile of a laurel crown, his underpants and nothing else. He was soon followed by a similarly attired lady, his wife Edith. The costume was our clue to the proposed entertainment for the evening, a screening of the Frankie Howerd classic, Up Pompeii. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself here let’s complete the introductions. Frank and Edith are a retired Dutch couple both of whom are in their late seventies. Frank had worked in film distribution, which explained the unique line in boundary making materials.

Projectionist and Usherette

At the front of the house, the couple had laid out a flat area covered in sand leading to the trees standing at the perimeter of the property. Suspended on the trees was the screen to be used for the projection of the evening’s movie. The view from the deck was spectacular as the sun set yellows, orange and a lovely range of violets that the camera can’t capture in any adequate fashion. Things looked set fair for the commencement of proceedings. As we luxuriated in the evening light a half dozen other souls arrived to share the show, and what an interesting bunch they turned out to be.

Lipstick Sunset (prize for first one to come up with name of person who coined title)

We took our seats as the light died and the projector whirred into life, then spluttered and arrested. The projector mechanics in our small audience gathered around the machine and their ministrations achieved a stuttering, spluttering vision of Frankie leading his donkey through the Forum prior to coming to a complete stop. Another attempt or two and it became clear that someone had got right up Pompeii and it was dead for the night. However, our genial host was not to be beaten and he declared that he had many other films stored that he would now use. The first reel of Summer Holiday had the audience singing along with Cliff till it ended abruptly with no second reel to follow. Rumours of an Elvis epic were greatly exaggerated as he had clearly left the building. An apologetic Frank now dressed in a fetching assemblage of t-shirt and Y- fronts, a more appropriate theme since the earlier eruption of Vesuvius, went in search of a complete movie. Meanwhile, Edith distributed pink champagne and party poppers while the audience conversation became ever more surreal. Intimate revelations that would not get past the censor reared their head during this passage of play. You just couldn’t make this stuff up. At last we settled back and rejoiced in the antics of Laurel and Hardy, a fitting pair of partners to our nocturne in Forest Fields.

Pink Champers works for us girls

Surveying the debris

We are still damaging ourselves laughing as we reflect on one of the weirdest evenings that we have ever experienced.

Sons of the Desert