Zion

Well the expected snow arrived over night but seemed to be shifting so we set out on our planned trip to Zion National Park. As each mile passed the falling snow increased in intensity and as we gained height it made a better job of lying making the conditions for driving treacherous. We entered the Park and soon found that the slipping and sliding along the narrow, winding roads was too risky to progress any further. Finding a turn off to get the car pointing home wasn’t easy as each seemed to be occupied by drivers attempting similar manoeuvres.

Road into Zion

Zion View

Snow thickens

On the way out

What we needed now was another plan for the day. As we sat over coffee at the first dine we spotted we took stock and reflected that a rest wouldn’t be too bad an idea. Our deliberations also dwelt on the fact neither of us was feeling our best and hadn’t been for the last couple of days. A quick run down of symptoms, particularly shortness of breath and background headaches convinced us that we were both suffering a little from altitude sickness.

We had talked ourselves into making a return to our lodgings and spending the time catching up on correspondence, maybe a little painting and making a start on rationalising the luggage as a prelude to our journey home.

However, before getting back we made a short detour to a gallery that I had discovered via a flyer for a show of paintings by an artist called Kate Starling. Of all places I discovered the flyer lying on the counter or a State Liquor Store when calling in for a bottle of wine. Yes, a State Liquor Store, Utah is a state with a strict control on the sale of alcohol, nothing like the easy availability of drink at home or indeed in other states in USA. Anyway that’s an aside, we got to the gallery to find it closed and difficult to access due to the depth of snow on the drive. This did not deter Sheila who bounded through the snow, mounted the deck around and the gallery and tried every available door. Not finding one open she then decided to knock at the rear door that was clearly the home of the gallery owners, the Binghams. Mr. Bingham answered the door and then proceeded to open the gallery for us. What a treat. The gallery was full with examples of first class landscape work largely devoted to the wonderful Parks in Arizona and Utah. Good conversation and fabulous artwork for me to study made this a delightful interlude.

The rest of the day was spent in the jobs we had set ourselves while watching the snow carry on falling. The watercolour below was my little contribution to proceedings.

Canyon View - watercolour

The big challenge for the early evening was to locate a place selling food that was open and had not been abandoned by the staff in making sure that they could reach their homes; that on top of the fact that this was a winter Sunday in a state where they roll up the sidewalks at the onset of poor weather. We were lucky and kidnapped a team of restaurant staff, as they were about to abandon their place of work and had a pleasant repast with no sign of resentment on the part of a fine bunch of people.

The weather closes in

Awakening in El Tovar that stands on the rim of the Grand Canyon, was exciting in more than one way. Within twenty yards of the front door you are standing over one mile vertical drop, but his morning there was an added dimension, an atypical heavy fall of snow had begun and the forecast was that it would last for the day. The day took on an air of urgency as we set about ensuring that we were able to get out of the Park before the roads required the sort of treatment that has been the winter’s story at home.

Just out the front door

It wasn’t so much of a rush that we couldn’t enjoy the atmospheric dining room of the hotel before leaving and also get one or two more shots of the Canyon when there was the slightest let up in the snow.

El Tovar Dining Room

El Tovar Lobby

Snow coming in

More snow on the way

Last view of the Canyon

From Grand Canyon Village our route was to take us on a fascinating route that crossed land that was Native American Reservation and to have glimpses of the settlements that were strung out along the barren landscape that lined the road. The landscape began to change as rising hills of coloured sandstone became the norm. Page was the next town on our way and as the gateway to the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell. Glimpses of Vermillion Cliffs and Paria Wilderness made sure that we would promise ourselves a return trip. For years I have enjoyed the images produced by my good friend Les McLean, a fine photographer, who had spent many working trips in Arizona and Utah, and now I had the first hand experience of placing those images into the context of my own visual memory. Thanks Les.

A little shaft of light before the storm catches up

Deteriorating weather seemed to be following us so we kept moving and missed numerous opportunities to fill more of our memory cards. We arrived in Kanab, venue for the making of lots of cowboy movies by all of the big names of the genre, including John and Clint, to hear that there was a really heavy snowstorm forecast over the next twenty-four hours. Sky watch was the order for the evening.

Kanab Main Street

Memories of the Movies

How Grand Can it Be?

Just before last light I managed to do a quick sketch of the view from the balcony at our digs in Sedona. There wasn't enough light to photograph it last night so it had to wait till this morning.

View from Matterhorn Inn, Sedona

Early morning, Sedona

Another morning shot

To travel in Arizona is to understand the impact that the Grand Canyon has on the consciousness of those who live there but also how it is held in the thoughts of the nation. No matter what the time of year, whatever the weather the huge number of Americans who come with the foreign tourists in their thousands is testament to the affection and awe that this huge scar on the surface of our planet engenders.

View down Oak Creek

Wider view along Oak Creek

Top of the hill above Slide Rock Park

Sheila shivers in her 'acclimatisation for returning home' programme

And so it was that we headed North from Sedona on our own pilgrimage to the National Park. Our route took us along Oak Creek Canyon, through Slide Rock Park to Flagstaff rapidly rising and seeing the amount of accumulated snow increase as we gained height. It is easy to forget how high these mountains rise, at various times we get as high as 8,000 ft.. After stopping to take in the views on numerous occasions we eventually arrived at our destination the wonderful old lodge in the Park, El Tovar. After checking in we had time to take in the vistas from the rim of the Canyon. Jaw dropping spectacular is the only way to describe it.

First view of the Canyon

More of the same

Just to prove that I'm not actually in Middlesbrough on the Pamole diet

More Canyon

And again

Are you fed up yet?

Keep going

Little details

Out on the edge

El Tovar

Sheila gets as close as she is comfortable

Snow forecast for the morning, hope we get to see more before we head off to Kanab.

To Sedona

A relatively short hop from LA to Phoenix set us up for a drive up to our first top in Arizona, Sedona. Phoenix itself seemed to stretch for miles before we hit more open country and the climb through land covered in the monumental Saguro cacti much loved by movie fans. The landscape changes as you move into higher desert country and eventually we met country that made us realise why this part of the world is known as Red Rock.

Today's pictures are a little selection of shots taken en route. The last two are taken from our motel balcony. Not bad, eh?

Hope you're not going to get sick of rock shots, we're off to the Grand Canyon tomorrow.

Down in Hollywood!

Smokers beware! For the second time in recent travels, sneaky smokers have set off fire alarms in airport toilets resulting in terminals being evacuated, passengers having to undergo the rigours of security checks for a second time and flights being delayed. Myself and hundreds of other tortured souls are now looking for the culprits with a view to ripping out their selfish hearts. The thought that one person can cause so much disruption makes it easy to understand why the airlines and airports make such a dramatic target for those who wish others harm. As you may gather from today’s rant our flight from Auckland to Los Angeles was delayed as a result of a fire alarm being set off in one of the airport toilets. Fortunately for us the flight had started to board and whilst we were shepherded onto the tarmac and guarded we did avoid having to go through another round of security checks, the latest version of which travellers to the US have to undergo being even more thorough and in addition to the usual check. We arrived in the USA knackered after all that, but we did have the consolation of having our second opportunity to enjoy February 17^th, courtesy of the International Date Line.

Manhattan Beach - Beach Volleyball Capital of the States

On arrival at our hotel after a smooth and swift passage through US immigration and customs we had to decide whether to sleep off our travel weariness or try to drop straight into local time. We decided on the latter and after a quick Skype session to catch up with the family, we headed for the beach. LAX is not too far from the coast just south of the main city centre and as we hadn’t been there before we decided to avoid the cross city trip to more well known venues like Venice Beach and go local. A shuttle down to Manhattan Beach gave us the chance for a pleasant and rejuvenating stroll along a promenade lined with some very expensive looking seaside real estate as well as a walk to the end of the pier.

The Pier

Pam was out saving somebody

Interested Observer

End of the Pier

Round, round I git around

The Recovery Position

Bijou Beach Cabin

Just to have room for the family

Main Street Manhattan Beach

Much quieter than some of its better-known neighbours this was a very discreet, up market community that oozed wealth and as such was graced with a good selection of eating establishments, one of which provided us with the evening meal. A shuttle back to our hotel gave us the chance of an early night prior to the next morning’s flight to Phoenix.

LAX with reflections